Enhancing Energy Efficiency in Your Historic Connecticut Home

As the cost of energy rises, resource supplies become precious and the public becomes increasingly aware of environmental dangers associated with the Historic houses pose unique challenges to energy-reducing retrofitsburning of fossil fuels, home energy efficiency has become more than a fringe concern. Homeowners worldwide are currently enhancing their homes’ energy efficiency, although owners of historic homes have met some unique challenges: How do you introduce new architectural elements into an old home without interfering with its original design? As luck would have it, this concern is somewhat balanced by energy-saving qualities already present in many historic homes that reduce the need for alterations. This article details the ways that historic homes are inherently energy-efficient, and offers ways that such assets can be further improved.
 

Historic buildings are often more energy-efficient than modern construction. In fact, studies have shown that buildings constructed before 1940 require less energy consumption for heating and cooling than houses built during the subsequent 35 years. Before electricity was available, homes capitalized on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation because the house itself – not electric lights and heaters – was all that protected occupants from the elements. Some specific elements of older buildings that contribute to their excellent energy efficiency are as follows:

   * thick, heat-retaining masonry walls made from stone or brick;
   * exterior balconies, porches, wide roof overhangs, rooftop ventilators, clerestories, skylights, awnings and shade trees were all used in homes built in warmer climates;
    *windows often include exterior shutters, interior Venetian blinds, curtains and drapes which make them more energy-efficient than modern windows;
    *exterior walls were often painted light colors to reflect the hot summer sun, resulting in cooler interior living spaces;Skylights, which maximise natural sunlight, were more common in older homes than they are today.
    and

    *windows were only installed where they could effectively allow for lighting and ventilation. Modern architecture, by contrast, relies on more windows than are necessary as a stylistic measure, with a reduced R-value as an unfortunate side effect.

Retrofit dangers to avoid in historic buildings:

   *avoid waterproofing old masonry. Waterproof coatings will trap moisture against the masonry, potentially causing deterioration during the freezing cycle;
    *damage to or removal of historic architectural elements. Replacing solid, historic materials or components, such as natural wood with substitutes made of plywood or plastics, have short lifespans under certain conditions;
    *exposing occupants to toxins, such as lead dust and asbestos. Older homes were built before much was known about the health effects of certain chemicals, some of which might become airborne during the retrofit process. Be sure to ask your InterNACHI inspector about concerns during your next inspection;
    *introducing materials that may damage existing components. Certain cellulose insulation uses ammonium or aluminum sulfate as a fire retardant, which may react with moisture in the air to form sulfuric acid and damage metals (including plumbing and wiring), building stones, brick and wood; and
    *retrofits that violate rules imposed by committees overseeing historic districts. In some areas, even exterior paint color must be approved.
    *removing historic windows and other components, adding aluminum siding, or installing dropped ceilings in interior spaces.

Retrofits in Historic Buildings

The following retrofits are often used in historic buildings to make them more energy-efficient:

    Add insulation to crawlspaces. This feat may be significantly more cumbersome than adding attic insulation because crawlspaces are often excessively moist. If insulation is added to moist areas of the house, care should be taken to ventilate the area, perhaps with the assistance of an exhaust fan.
    Add weatherstripping to doors and windows. A common problem in historic buildings is leaky windows and doors, which can be mitigated by caulking open cracks and joints. Be sure to only use appropriate colors that do not interfere with the historic character of the house. Also, do not seal the building so much that moisture cannot escape the building.
    Add insulation to the attic. This process is often easier than adding insulation in other areas, such as in walls, and is hugely energy saving. The most common insulation materials include cellulose, mineral wool, fiberglass, and vermiculite.
    Add storm windows. Rather than removing historic windows, supplement them with storm windows that reduce thermal transmission and do not affect the historic character of the building. Storm windows can be painted if their colors are inappropriate. Care should be taken during installation to avoid damage to the historic window frames. Storm windows will be effective regardless of whether they are installed on the interior or exterior of the original frame, although this decision will have consequences; interior storm windows may cause the historic windows to become excessively cold, causing moisture to condense, resulting in peeling paint and deteriorated wood. If the storm windows are installed on the exterior, however, they may interfere with the building’s image.Shade trees lessen the need for air conditioning in summer
    Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs. This change is a good idea in any home regardless of its age, but it is especially helpful in older homes because it disturbs none of the home's character.
    Replace old appliances. Old buildings often have old appliances, which should be replaced with Energy Star®-rated appliances.
    Add a shade tree. A tree can be an effective barrier against the sun during the summer months, and it increases the natural, historic appeal of an old house. A deciduous tree is best because it will lose its leaves in the winter and allow sunlight to enter the house when it is most needed. The tree should be placed at a safe distance from the house to avoid damage to the foundation and falling limbs during a windstorm.
    Install storm doors in cold climates, although they are often not cost-effective in warmer climates. Historic doors usually require little alteration, especially if they are solid wood and in good condition, or if they are critical to the historic appearance of the house.
    Vestibules are architectural features that reduce heat loss by creating an additional airspace while the exterior door is open. They are often not, however, cost-effective as an add-on due to their high price of installation. Also, they are not likely to mesh with the appearance of historic buildings.
    Replace windows. This should be done only when the historic windows are damaged to the point where repair is impractical. The new windows should be selected to match the style of the building. As mentioned earlier, the addition of storm windows is an effective, minimally invasive way to reduce utility costs.

In summary, historic homes possess qualities that make them inherently energy-efficient while simultaneously resistant to retrofits that would enhance energy savings. Homeowners should thus take care while altering their old homes, but also grateful for the hardwired efficiency they have inherited from previous generations.
 
Article submitted by Nick Gromicko and Rob London

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

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Generator Safety for your Connecticut Home- Hazards You Can Avoid

After Hurricane Irene hit Connecticut a little over a month ago,  thousands of state residents were without power, and there was a BIG rush on generators. There are many types of generators, from small portable units to more involved systems that hook up right into your electrical system as an automatic back-up.

This type of  back up power supply should be treated with the same caution,  care,  respect, and diligence as any other power source coming into your home. That means, hire a licensed contractor for installation. Do not attempt to Do-It-Yourself, period.

This article written by our regular contributor, Nick Gromicko with Elise London as co-author, and has a lot of useful information every that homeowner who has an alternative power source should read.

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Homeowners may use a generator to supply electricity to their home in the case of a power outage, either out of necessity or convenience. Inspectors may want to know about generators and the potential hazards they present when improperly wired or utilized.   

Generator Types- There are two main types of generators:  permanently installed, standby generators; and gasoline-powered, portable generators.
 
Standby Generators- Standby generators typically operate on natural gas or liquid propane. They remain fixed in place outside the home and are designed to supply on-site power to specified circuits through a home's electrical wiring. These generators work in tandem with a manual or automatic transfer switch, which automatically detects an interruption in grid-powered electricity and subsequently transfers Standby generators are non-portable and may require a permit.over electrical input to the generator. The transfer switch suspends input from the generator once it senses that utility-powered electricity has resumed. Generators for small- to medium-size homes are typically air-cooled and employ fans to regulate the temperature inside the unit. Liquid-cooled units are used for the larger energy loads in larger homes.
 
Some advantages of standby generators are as follows:

    They may be turned on manually, or they may be programmed to switch on automatically in the case of a power outage even when no one is home.
    Power may be supplied for extended periods of time.
    Hard-wired systems, such as a home's furnace, well pump and air conditioner, may maintain continuous power.
    Uninterrupted power can be supplied to systems that must remain on continuously, such as medical equipment used for breathing, etc.

Disadvantages of standby generators are as follows:

    Installation may require a permit.
    A qualified technician, such as an electrician, is required to install the ATS and to determine the electrical load requirements for the circuits in a home.
    Routine maintenance is required.
    Standby generators may be prohibitively expensive.Portable generators are versatile and do not require a complicated setup.

Portable Generators- Gasoline-powered, portable generators are typically smaller in size and power capacity than permanently installed generators. They are designed so that corded electrical devices may be plugged directly into them.
 
Advantages to portable generators are as follows:

    Portable generators are versatile. They may be used at home or transported and utilized in remote locations, such as a campground or a construction site.
    They do not require complicated installation.
    They typically do not require permits.
    Portable units are generally less expensive than standby generators.   

Disadvantages of portable generators:

    Devices that are hard-wired into a home's electrical system cannot be powered by a portable generator if no transfer switch is installed.     

Hazards

    Portable and standby generators produce dangerous carbon monoxide (CO) gas, which can be deadly if inhaled.
    Inexperienced installers are exposed to the risk of electrical shock. Only qualified electricians should attempt to install a generator.
    Overloading a generator may result in reduced fuel efficiency, damage to appliances or fire.
    Standby generators or their required transfer switches that are incorrectly wired (or missing) may result in "back-feed" -- a hazardous condition in which an electrical current is fed back into the grid -- which could potentially electrocute and kill homeowners, utility workers, and others who are using the same utility transformer.
    Connecting a portable generator directly into a home's wall outlet can also cause dangerous back-feed.
    Generators that are exposed to water or that are not properly grounded can cause electrocution.
    Gasoline for portable generators is highly flammable and may cause a fire when exposed to an open flame or when spilled on the hot generator.
    Over-taxed cords attached to a portable generator may cause a fire.

Inspection- InterNACHI inspectors may want to check for the following:

    Generators should never be used anywhere indoors, even if the area is ventilated.
    Portable generators placed outside should not be near doors, vents or open windows leading into the home.
    Carbon-monoxide detectors should be installed in case CO is accidentally released into the home.
    Portable generators should not be plugged directly into a home's electrical receptacles.
    A standby generator hard-wired into a home should have a transfer switch installed to prevent backfeeding.  An inspector can locate this device situated between
    the generator and the main electrical panel.  An automatic transfer switch (ATS) required by a standby generator
    Generators should be properly grounded.
    Units should be dry and shielded from contact with liquid.
    Only heavy-duty electrical cords that are rated for outdoor use should be plugged into portable generators.
    Electrical cords should not have any punctures or exposed wiring.
    Cords running from portable generators should be kept out of the way of foot traffic and should not run underneath rugs.
    The total electrical capacity of the generator should exceed the power requirements of the devices that the unit is supplying.
    Fuel for portable generators should be stored away from the home and children in clearly labeled and durable containers.


In summary, generators can be lifesavers during a power outage, but they present serious health and safety concerns if they are not installed and used properly.

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

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How Often Should You Update Your Connecticut Homeowners Insurance Policy?

What?  You never knew that you should update your policy? You're not alone... most people don't know, but at least now YOU do. Let your friends know, too.

Whether you have owned your home for quite some time, you have recently purchased your home and  made some improvements, or are planning to purchase a home and do some immediate or short term renovations, it is important to remember to review your policy coverages every year, or after any renovation.

With a decline in home equity that the real estate market has brought upon us, some homeowners have no choice but to remodel rather than move.

"Buildfax"  is a company that maintains a national building database, which also includes permits, and their latest report said that remodeling activity reached a record high in July as consumers put more discretionary income into improving or renovating their homes.T

Residential remodeling activity registered the 21st straight month of year-over-year gains according to The BuildFax Remodeling Index (BFRI) for July. The report goes on to say that consumers are continuing to remodel rather than purchase new homes and do so amid concerns of a recession..  

The July index was up 24 percent from one year ago and, at 130.4 is the highest number since the index began in 2004.

 The index was up in all regions, including the Northeast, although our area fared much better percentage-wise.

At the same time that building materials sales were up, there are indications that homeowners have not increased their insurance to reflect the changes in value.

Buyers: Remember to contact your insurance company if you are planning to do renovations. Please don't wait for an "event" to happen to find out that you are under-insured for the replacement value of your home. Contact your insurance carrier today.

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Source: MorgageNewsDaily.com

Geothermal Heating and Cooling Systems in Your Connecticut Home

Geothermal systems are home heating and cooling systems that gather heat from the earth. Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use the relatively constant temperature of sub-surface soil as the exchange medium.

Geographical Distribution

• As of 2004, five countries -- El Salvador, Kenya, the Philippines, Iceland and Costa Rica -- generate more than 15% of their electricity from geothermal sources. In Iceland, geothermal energy is so cheap that some sections of pavement are heated.
• In the United States, roughly 50,000 geothermal heat pumps are installed every year. The U.S. leads the world in geothermal exploitation.
• The combined production of geothermal energy for all uses places third among renewable energy sources, following hydroelectricity and biomass, and ahead of solar and wind.

Where does geothermal energy come from?

 

Beneath the Earth's crust, there is a layer of hot, molten rock called magma. Heat is continually produced there, mostly from the decay of naturally radioactive materials, such as uranium and potassium. The amount of heat within the first 33,000 feet (or 10,000 meters) of the Earth's surface contains 50,000 times more energy than all the oil and natural gas resources in the world combined.

Benefits of Geothermal Energy:

• energy efficiency. GHPs require 25% to 50% less electricity than conventional heating and cooling systems. According to the EPA, geothermal heat pumps can reduce energy consumption — and corresponding emissions — up to 44%, compared to air-source heat pumps, and up to 72%, compared to electric resistance heating with standard air-conditioning equipment.
• design flexibility. Geothermal heat pump systems can be installed in both new and retrofit construction. Equipment rooms can be scaled down in size because the hardware requires less space than is needed by conventional HVAC systems. GHP systems also provide excellent "zone" space conditioning, which allows different parts of a home to be heated or cooled to different temperatures.
• durability. Since GHP systems have relatively few moving parts and the parts are sheltered inside a building, the systems are durable and reliable. The underground piping often carries warranties of 25 to 50 years, and the heat pumps can last more than 20 years. The components are easily accessible, which helps ensure that the required maintenance is performed on a timely basis.
• noise reduction. As they have no outside condensing units (such as those in air conditioners), there's no noise outside the home. Geothermal heat pumps are so quiet inside of a house that users may not be aware they are operating.

How do geothermal systems work?

A geothermal heat pump, unlike a furnace, does not create heat by burning fuel. Instead, it collects the earth's natural heat through a series of pipes, called a loop, installed below the frost line. At that depth, which varies by climate zone, the soil remains at a relatively constant temperature throughout the year. Fluid circulates through the loop and carries heat to the house. There, an electrically driven compressor and a heat exchanger concentrate the heat and release it inside the home at a higher temperature, where ductwork distributes the heat to different rooms. In summer, the underground loop draws excess heat from the house and allows it to be absorbed into the earth. The system cools the home in the same way that a refrigerator keeps food cool -- by drawing heat from the interior, rather than by forcing in cold air.

Types of Systems

According to InterNACHI, there are four basic types of geothermal systems. Selection of the most appropriate system depends on the climate, soil conditions, available land, and local installation costs at the site. All of these systems can be used for residential and commercial building applications. They include:

• horizontal:  This type of installation is generally the most cost-effective for residential installations, particularly for new construction where sufficient land is available. The most common layouts use either two pipes (one buried at 6 feet, and the other at 4 feet), or two pipes placed side-by-side buried 5 feet in the ground in a 2-foot wide trench.
• vertical:  Large commercial buildings and schools often use vertical systems because the land area required for horizontal loops is prohibitive. Vertical loops are also used where the soil is too shallow for trenching, and they minimize the disturbance to existing landscaping. For a vertical system, holes (approximately 4 inches in diameter) are drilled about 20 feet apart and 100 to 400 feet deep. Two pipes are inserted into these holes and connected at the bottom to form a loop. The vertical loops are connected to the heat pump in the building.
• pond/lake:  A supply-line pipe is run underground from the building to a body of water and coiled into circles at least 8 feet under the surface. In order for the body of water to be adequate, it must meet minimum volume, depth and quality criteria.
• open-loop system:  This type of system uses well or surface water as the heat exchange fluid that circulates directly through the GHP system. Once it has circulated through the system, the water returns to the ground through the well, a recharge well, or surface discharge. This option is practical only where there is an adequate supply of relatively clean water, which must comply with local codes and regulations regarding groundwater discharge.

Cost

A geothermal system usually costs about $2,500 per ton of capacity. A typical home uses a 3-ton unit costing roughly $7,500. That initial cost is nearly twice the price of a regular heat pump system that includes air conditioning. The cost of drilling, however, can be considerable; drilling can cost in excess of $30,000, depending on the terrain and other local factors. Systems that require drilling vertically deep into the ground will cost much more than systems where the loops are in a horizontal fashion and closer to the surface. Despite these initial costs, a geothermal system saves enough on utility bills that the investment is often recouped in five to ten years.

In summary, geothermal systems heat and cool homes using sub-surface soil as an exchange medium. Geothermal systems are more expensive to install than conventional furnaces, but their operating costs are significantly lower. 

 

Article submitted by

 Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard 

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

All about Roofing for your Fairfield County CT Home

Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the building's exterior walls from moisture and sun. The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials.
 
Maintaining Your Roof
Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roof’s valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage, regardless of the roofing material. including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces.
 
A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors.
 
There are two types of roofs:  flat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tar-like substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roof’s insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast.
 
Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or where shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also water-proof and damp-proof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach a waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When damp-proofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces.
 
A number of roofing materials are available...
 
Asphalt.  Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral-surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings, such as sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof's eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat and low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane, and surfacing material. A modified bitumen-membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane's physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture-resistance and overall system integrity.
 
Metal.  Most metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or a zinc-aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eaves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire, should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts two to three times longer than asphalt and wood shingles.
 
Wood. Wood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Because of variations in color, width, thickness, and cut of the wood, no two shake roofs will ever look the same. Wood offers some energy benefits, too. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot and insects can become a problem. The life-cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can't be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor, as well as the caliber of the shakes used. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large, old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don't last as long.

Concrete and Tile. Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price-versus-performance basis, they may out-perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings, as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance-free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile's superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure.
 
Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are also energy-efficient, helping to maintain livable interior temperatures (in both cold and warm climates) at a lower cost than other roofing systems. Because of the thermal capacity of roof tiles and the ventilated air space that their placement on the roof surface creates, a tile roof can lower air-conditioning costs in hotter climates, and produce more constant temperatures in colder regions, which reduces potential ice accumulation. Tile roofing systems are made from naturally occurring materials and can be easily recycled into new tiles or other useful products. They are produced without the use of chemical preservatives, and do not deplete limited natural resources.

Single-Ply Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and, therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long-lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as "rubber roofing"). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, which require the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high-tech formulation and pre-fabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, "modified" using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: APP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt, and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.

Are You at Risk? If you aren't sure whether your house is at risk from natural disasters, check with your local fire marshal, building official, city engineer, or planning and zoning administrator. They can tell you whether you are in a hazard area. Also, they usually can tell you how to protect yourself and your house and property from damage. It is never a bad idea to ask an InterNACHI inspector whether your roof is in need of repair during your next scheduled inspection. Protection can involve a variety of changes to your house and property which that can vary in complexity and cost. You may be able to make some types of changes yourself. But complicated or large-scale changes and those that affect the structure of your house or its electrical wiring and plumbing should be carried out only by a professional contractor licensed to work in your state, county or city. One example is fire protection, accomplished by replacing flammable roofing materials with fire-resistant materials. This is something that most homeowners would probably hire a contractor to do.
 
Replacing Your Roof. The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years, if properly installed, and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a home’s interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof.
 
Fire-Resistant Materials. Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles, and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall onto roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also, a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials.
 
Hiring a Licensed Contractor. One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends and relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor:

    get three references and review their past work;
    get at least three bids;
    get a written contract, and don’t sign anything until you completely understand the terms;
    pay 10% down or $1,000 whichever is less;
    don’t let payments get ahead of the work;
    don’t pay cash;
    don’t make final payment until you’re satisfied with the job; and
    don’t rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision.

You’ve Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract? Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do.
 
...and Permits?  Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is required whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permits. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage, and again when the roof is completed.
 
...and Insurance? Make sure the contractor carries workers' compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics’ liens against your home in the event the contractor does not pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a "release of lien" clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a "certificate of waiver of lien." If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project.
 
Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced: Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.  Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.  If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.

Article submitted by Nick Gromicko

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

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