Almost November- Time to Have The Chimney Checked on Your CT Home!

Chimneys are among the heaviest and most structurally vulnerable of all exterior components of a building.  Accidents caused by their collapse can lead to death.  A collapse can also cause costly structural damage to the building and its surroundings. Inspection, maintenance and preparedness are critical safeguards against chimney collapse.

 

Wind and other elements may cause an already weakened chimney to collapse. An elderly man in Britain was crushed by a wind-toppled chimney as it fell from the roof of the managed-care facility where he lived. This case is, unfortunately, fairly unremarkable, as such accidents occur often for a variety of reasons -- from weathering and wind, to falling tree limbs and poor design.

Chimneys collapse by the hundreds during major earthquakes, typically snapping at the roofline. More than half of the homes in Washington State inspected by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)  following the Nisqually Earthquake in 2001 sustained chimney damage.  Chimney collapses were widely reported following the massive-magnitude 7.1 earthquake that struck New Zealand in September 2010.

 

Earthquake damage and injuries can be caused, in large part, by bricks and stones as they fall from chimneys onto vehicles, structures and people. These collapses happen suddenly and without warning.  Collapses can also cause implosion-type destruction as the chimney makes its way through the roof and attic, demolishing part of the living space and injuring occupants below. For these reasons, it is crucial that chimneys, especially in seismically active regions, be inspected periodically for signs of weakening. Following an earthquake, it is even more vital that chimneys be inspected for indications of imminent or future collapse.

 

Chimneys should be inspected for the following defects:

• mortar between the bricks or stones that crumbles when poked with a screwdriver;
• missing or insufficient lateral support -- typically, steel straps -- used to tie the chimney to the structure at the roof and floor levels. Building codes in some seismically active regions require internal and external bracing of chimneys to the structure;
• mechanical damage to the chimney, such as that caused by falling tree limbs or scaffolding;
• visible tilting or separation from the building. Any gap should be frequently measured to monitor whether it is increasing; and
• chimney footing defects, including the following:
  • undersized footing, which is footing cast so thin that it breaks, or does not sufficiently extend past the chimney’s base to support its weight;
  • deteriorated footing, caused by weathering, frost, loose or poor-quality construction; and
  • poor soil below footing, including eroded, settled or otherwise weakened soil, frost heaves or expansive clay beneath the footing.

A more thorough inspection performed to the International Phase I Standards of Practice for Inspecting Fireplaces and Chimneys may also be considered.

 

The following additional precautions may be taken:

• Attach plywood panels to the roof or above the ceiling joists to act as a barrier between falling masonry and the roof.
• Strengthen the existing chimney by repairing weak areas.
• Tear down the chimney and replace it with a flue or a stronger chimney. Keep in mind that tall, slender, masonry chimneys are most vulnerable to earthquakes, weathering, and other forms of wear.  However, even newer, reinforced or metal flue chimneys can sustain significant damage and require repair.
• Relocate children’s play areas, patios and parking areas away from a damaged chimney.
• Instruct family members to get away from chimneys during earthquakes.

Homeowners should contact their local building departments to obtain required permits before starting any significant construction that may affect the chimney structure and/or its supports.

In addition to collapse hazards, leaning chimneys can also make using the fireplace dangerous. Hearth cracks, side cracks in the fireplace, openings around the fireplace, and chimney damage all present the risk that sparks or smoke will enter the living space or building cavities. Check for evidence of fireplace movement. Following an earthquake, homeowners should have their chimney inspected before using the fireplace.

Commercial chimney collapses are rare, but they deserve mention due to the devastation they cause. In one terrible incident in central India, more than 100 workers were killed when a 900-foot (275-meter) tall chimney collapsed on a construction site. One of the worst construction site disasters in recent history, the collapse was blamed on heavy rain. While safety standards are generally more stringent outside of India, commercial chimneys everywhere require inspection.

In summary, chimneys should be inspected to prevent deadly, expensive collapses.

 

Written by Nick Gromicko (All Rights reserved)

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  www.NACHI.TV

Style, Safety and Resale Among Benefits of a Fenced-in Yard

A fence can add to your home's overall curb appeal, as long as it is stylish and in good condition. In fact, I cannot recall even one instance with any buyer client of mine who disliked a fence so much that they were not willing to move forward with purchasing a home.

Homeowners might consider adding a fence for many reasons. However, “It’s up to the individual and what they’re trying to accomplish,” says Jamie Turrentine, owner of Southwest Fence and Deck in Carrollton, Texas. Here are ways you could benefit from a fenced-in yard.

Pets
Sixty percent of Americans have complaints about their neighbors. Topping that list: their pets.1 A fence gives Fido the freedom to run leash-free, and you won’t have to worry about him roaming into neighbors’ yards or into the street.

Pools
Building a fence around your pool helps safeguard against injuries and accidental drowning. Learn more about pool fences and other important pool barriers.

Security
A fence can be both a boundary and a barrier. It can prevent your child from chasing a stray ball into the street or conceal items such as patio furniture and barbecues from thieves.

Privacy
Install a fence to turn your yard into an extension of your living space. A tall privacy fence allows you to enjoy family gatherings or time to yourself away from the eyes of passersby.

Curb Appeal
A fence can add character and charm to your home’s exterior—as long as it’s not an eyesore. Keep up with maintenance, such as staining, and choose a fence that fits your home’s style.

Resale Value
Investing in a fence could pay off if you ever decide to sell. Many house-hunters enjoy the aesthetics of a fenced-in yard and appreciate the privacy and security it can offer.

Before You Build

    If you’re having a fence installed, verify that the contractor has the appropriate insurance.
    Contact City Hall or your zoning office for local building codes.
    Secure necessary building permits.
    Don’t impede on a neighbor’s property. “Have a survey done so you know your property lines,” Turrentine says.
    Call  your local notification service to locate underground utility lines.
    Discuss your plans with neighbors. “Make sure they know what’s going on and what you’re doing,” Turrentine says. “That’s part of being a good neighbor.”

Article submitted by Brennan Purdy of State Farm Insurance

My vision is to be an insurance professional whose actions are driven by keeping the customer's best interest as my primary goal. My staff will treat all my customers in a caring, friendly, and professional manner. My office will provide warm, efficient, and seamless services to our customers at all times. I expect my business to be comprised of knowledgeable, multiple-line customers who see my office as their first and best choice for all their insurance and financial service needs

For more information on these and other home safety tips, stop by my office or visit www.brennanpurdy.com. My office is conveniently located in downtown Bethel. 203-798-7300.                   211 Greenwood Avenue , Bethel, CT 06801

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The Featured Home of the Week is at 125 Norton Road in Easton  for $1,290,000. See the virtual tour HERE

Buying or Selling a Home in Fairfield County?  Contact us!

If you have a question about buying or selling Real Estate in  Fairfield County, and are in need of representation, I invite you to contact me. I know the market like the back of my hand, know marketing inside and out, am a skilled negotiator- and I'd love to be on your side :) - Judy

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Basement Level Bedrooms Need "Egress" Windows For Safety

If you’re finishing your basement or are repurposing it to include bedrooms, your action plan must include egress windows—officially known as “Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings” (EEROs). These openings allow your family to get out easily in an emergency and allow emergency crews to get in.

These must-have safety features boast another benefit: They admit daylight, which instantly brightens a formerly dark and dreary basement.

Keep these considerations in mind when installing an egress window:

Code compliance. Visit your nearest code administration office to find out about local regulations for egress windows. In general, you’ll want to abide by standards set by the International Residential Code. Size requirements include:
•    Minimum width of opening: 20 in.
•    Minimum height of opening: 24 in.
•    Minimum net clear opening: 5.7 sq. ft. (5.0 sq. ft. for ground floor)
•    Maximum sill height above floor: 44 in.

Keep in mind that these are the minimum size requirements. “If you want any kind of light or air, you need to give yourself a little room,” says John Brenne, building safety expert. There are other requirements you’ll need to satisfy as well—such as windows must be operational from the inside and open without any tools, key, or special knowledge.

Window well installation. Below-ground egress windows must have a 3x3-foot (minimum) window well. Brenne recommends that windows less than 4 inches above grade have one too. Adding a below-ground well requires excavation, and if the well is any deeper than 44 inches, you’ll need to include a permanently attached ladder or steps. Consider adding a metal grate above the well so pets and people don’t fall in—just make sure it’s easily removable from the inside.

Drainage. The last thing you need is water seeping into your basement. If you have an existing foundation drain tile system in good shape, tap into it. If you have clay soil, which absorbs water and hinders drainage, backfill it with pea gravel. Also make sure your yard slopes away from the foundation, and that gutters and downspouts are clear and drain away from the house.

Reliable windows. Brenne recommends casement windows, which crank outward and take up the least amount of space. “They’re tight and well-constructed,” he adds.

Necessary skills. If you have concrete-block cutting skills, equipment, and a trusty partner who will help you excavate several feet of soil, you could install an egress window in a few days with these step-by-step tips and save some cash.

But because of the scope of the job—and because it’s important to get it right the first time—Brenne recommends hiring a professional. “You’ll have a lot of block and dirt to dispose of as well as needing several specialized and expensive tools like a partner saw, hammer drill, impact gun, and more,” Brenne says.

The information in this article was obtained from various sources. While we believe it to be reliable and accurate, we do not warrant the accuracy or reliability of the information. These suggestions are not a complete list of every loss control measure. The information is not intended to replace manuals or instructions provided by the manufacturer or the advice of a qualified professional. Nor is it intended to effect coverage under any policy. State Farm makes no guarantees of results from use of this information. We assume no liability in connection with the information nor the suggestions made.

Article submitted by Brennan Purdy of State Farm Insurance

My vision is to be an insurance professional whose actions are driven by keeping the customer's best interest as my primary goal. My staff will treat all my customers in a caring, friendly, and professional manner. My office will provide warm, efficient, and seamless services to our customers at all times. I expect my business to be comprised of knowledgeable, multiple-line customers who see my office as their first and best choice for all their insurance and financial service needs

For more information on these and other home safety tips, stop by my office or visit www.brennanpurdy.com. My office is conveniently located in downtown Bethel. 203-798-7300.                   211 Greenwood Avenue , Bethel, CT 06801

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Buying or Selling a Home in Fairfield County Connecticut? We'd love to represent you.

Feel free to email us here or visit our main  site at

www.CThomesAndRealEstate.com

If you have a question about buying or selling Real Estate  in Fairfield County, and are in need of representation, I invite you to contact me. I know the market like the back of my hand, know marketing inside and out, am a skilled negotiator- and I'd love to be on your side :) - Judy

Does Your Home Have Wet Basement Problems?

Unexpected water in your basement can damage walls and floors, destroy carpeting, ruin furniture and lead – pretty quickly – to mold. And perhaps the most upsetting of all: As basements are so often used for storage, water downstairs can ruin irreplaceable items like photo albums, antiques, and family heirlooms.

When you experience a flooded basement for the first time, it’s imperative to determine if the water problems are going to reoccur or if it was a one-time event. Can you safely leave your property downstairs once you’ve got the mess cleaned up? Or does everything need to come upstairs immediately? What’s certain is that if water in your basement is a consistent problem, it’s time to start making decisions.

Determining where the water is coming from is essential to solving this problem.

What Happened?

Beyond observable flooding around your home and in your neighborhood, there are four common sources of water entering basements:

• ·        Surface water running down foundation walls
• ·        Groundwater in water-saturated soils being pushed into the basement by hydrostatic pressure
• ·        Storm sewer water from the municipal storm sewer system backing up into the home's existing perimeter foundation drain and leaking into the basement
• ·        Sanitary sewer water from a clog in your home’s sewer line, the municipal sewer line, or the combined municipal storm/sanitary sewer system backing up into the home's drain system, causing sewer water to come up through sink drains and floor drains on lower levels

Each source has its own particularities and requires its own course of action. Find out more about your home’s drainage system by consulting a contractor or plumber.

Surface Water

If this is the first instance of water problems in your basement, the first thing to check for is surface water draining down next to the foundations. Water coming in at one location or only at the exterior foundation wall indicates surface water problems.

Here are some things to look for once you get outside.

Overflowing Gutters: Leaves

Keeping gutters clean of debris should be a part of every homeowner's routine maintenance program. Depending on the surrounding trees, gutter cleaning may be required a few times a year. Products are also available to prevent leaves from getting into the gutters in the first place.

Overflowing Gutters: Downspouts

If you don't mind getting wet, you can do a self-check (your gutters must be cleaned out first). After at least 15 minutes of heavy rain, check your gutters. If you see any water overflowing, you have a problem. Any water overflowing out of the gutters is running down next to the house foundations. Even if the water is not getting into the basement, it could be eroding soil from under the house footings, which can lead to cracking of walls and ceilings.

The easiest solutions to overflowing gutters are to either add another downspout on that run of gutter or to increase the size of the downspout. The best solution between these two is probably adding another downspout; the second downspout can act as a backup if the other gets blocked.

However, if you choose to replace the existing downspout with a larger one, make sure the contractor increases the size of the corresponding hole in the gutter. It doesn't do much good to install a larger downspout if the gutter hole is left small.

Downspout Distance

Downspouts should extend 10 feet from your home. While many homeowners do not like downspouts extending out this far, 10 feet is the minimum distance needed to discharge water coming off your roof far enough away from the house.

Pavement Slope

Sometimes paving settles over time and water flow can change direction toward the house. If this is the case, the paving should be removed and replaced so it slopes away from the home.

Sealant

Sealant around pavement that abuts the house sometimes cracks over time due to age or incorrect installation. If the sealant is cracked, it must be removed and replaced with new sealant.

Landscape Slope

Does your yard or the land around your home slope away from your home? It should. Look for any depressions in the ground next to the home foundation walls. If any are found, fill in with dirt so the water drains away from the house. Use a clay-type soil that sheds water instead of sandy soil that allows water to soak into the ground. Make sure that at least eight inches is kept between the top of the earth and any wood or stucco on the house.

If there are large hills nearby sloping toward your home, and you think they may be causing the problem, a civil engineer may be required to analyze the situation and determine the appropriate solutions.

Irrigation

Avoid placing lawn irrigation next to the house. If this cannot be avoided, instruct the installer to limit the amount of water dispersed next to the house. Make sure the irrigation system includes a working rain gauge so the system does not turn on when there has already been plenty of rain for the plants and lawn.

Did you find it?

You may have gotten a little wet as you investigated possible surface sources of water, but if you found a problem, the good news is that flooding in the future is preventable. Fix the culprit and your basement should stay dry.

Controlling Subsurface Groundwater

If no surface water sources are found, then the source of the water is likely subsurface groundwater under hydrostatic pressure. Unfortunately, subsurface groundwater problems are more difficult and more expensive to fix than surface groundwater problems.

When the groundwater levels outside the basement rise above the level of the floor, the basement acts like a boat in a pond. If a boat is sitting in water, water will leak in through any open cracks or holes. It works the same way with a basement. Hydrostatic pressure can push water through hairline cracks.

Symptoms of this are water coming up through cracks in the basement concrete floor or water coming in at multiple locations.

If you have an older house within town and the house has a basement with no sump pump, it is likely the perimeter foundation drain system connects directly into the city storm sewer system. If the level of the basement is below the street level, there is the potential of storm water backing up in the city storm sewer system and being pushed into the perimeter foundation drain system. This can saturate the soils around the house at the basement level with storm water under hydrostatic pressure, causing water to leak in.

Underground Springs

No matter where it is coming from, the best way to control subsurface groundwater is to install some type of perimeter drain system to relieve hydrostatic pressure. The groundwater is pushed into the drain system and not into areas where it can damage carpets, walls or belongings. The water drains by gravity into a sump pit where a sump pump discharges it out of the house.

There are two basic types of drain systems for wet basements. One is a perimeter above-slab gutter system installed at the base of the exterior foundation walls on top of the floor slab. It doubles as a base material for the wall. The other type of drainage system is a below slab perimeter drainage system. The below slab system requires the partial removal of the concrete floor slab and installation of drainage pipe, making it more expensive than the base gutter system.

It is believed that an under-floor drainage system is better because the under-floor drains are believed to relieve the hydrostatic pressure before the water reaches the bottom of the floor slab.

Storm Water Backing Up Into Your Home

In many older houses with basements (mostly pre-1980), there is a perimeter foundation drain outside the exterior wall, at the level of the basement floor, next to the footings at the time the house was built. A pipe was usually installed from the perimeter foundation drain to the street where it was connected to the city storm sewer system.

This can become a problem as the city storm sewer system becomes too small when more development causes more rain runoff. When this happens, the rainwater in the sewer system can get so high that water flows backwards toward the house.

Usually, the installation of an interior perimeter basement drain system connected to a sump pump will take care of the problem. If it doesn’t, the (more expensive) alternative is to dig up and cap the pipe that is running from the house to the street from the perimeter foundation drain. However, this is not always possible; many times, this pipe is also draining sanitary waste from toilets and sinks in the house.

If you believe you have this problem, contact an experienced contractor for advice.

Sanitary Sewer Water Backing Up Into Your Home

If the water is coming up through floor drains or sink drains in the basement, then the problem is often water backing up from the municipal sanitary sewer system. During heavy rains, combined sewer systems can become overwhelmed with water. This can cause sewer water to back up in the system and sometimes into homes.

There are other possible explanations, too. Sewer backups can be caused by individual service lines being plugged by grease, waste, tree roots, breaks in pipes or saturated ground. Sewer mains can also be plugged by vandalism or large items dropped down manholes.

This kind of flooding is an enormous problem for homeowners, as it’s largely out of your control and probably means fecal waste backing up into basements. Not only is it disgusting, but it can also be a serious health hazard.

In order to keep your individual lines clear, you can install backflow preventers that help stop sewer water from flowing backward into the house. Proper maintenance of your individual lines – for example, pouring tree root killer down your toilets once a year – can also go a long way in preventing sewage backups. Still, the problem is often out of your control.

Sewage in your basement means a major cleanup and a lot of uncertainty about future problems. If it’s something you’ve seen in your home, you’ll have to get your city government involved. At the very least, be aware of the problem and don’t leave anything valuable near your downstairs drains.

Article submitted by Brennan Purdy of State Farm Insurance

My vision is to be an insurance professional whose actions are driven by keeping the customer's best interest as my primary goal. My staff will treat all my customers in a caring, friendly, and professional manner. My office will provide warm, efficient, and seamless services to our customers at all times. I expect my business to be comprised of knowledgeable, multiple-line customers who see my office as their first and best choice for all their insurance and financial service needs

For more information on these and other home safety tips, stop by my office or visit www.brennanpurdy.com. My office is conveniently located in downtown Bethel. 203-798-7300.                   211 Greenwood Avenue , Bethel, CT 06801

 And a note From Judy: If you have a question about buying or selling Real Estate in Fairfield County, and are in need of an Realtor to represent you, I invite you to contact me, and if you have an idea for a topic that you would like to see on The CT Realty Blog, please include it in the "Post a Comment" section link below this post. We appreciate the feedback and look forward to providing you with the best real estate content, advice and service in Fairfield County, Connecticut.

If Your Connecticut Home Has an Underground Oil Tank

What You Should Know About Residential Underground Home Heating Oil Tanks
 

Whether you are buying or selling you may have questions regarding Underground Storage Tanks (UST).  If not leaking, there is no Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) regulation requiring the removal of UST, however most buyers will require the seller to remove prior to closing.

Questions: Through the DEP’s website the homeowner can find a list of frequently asked questions regarding removal of UST and proper abandonment. Additionally, homeowners should always contact their Town to determine the local regulations or ordinances.

Removal:  Removal of a UST must be done by a licensed contractor. A homeowner can check the status of a contractor's registration with the Department of Consumer Protection (DCP) prior to entering into a contract for a tank removal through the DCP's web site at: www.ct.gov/dcp

Moreover, the contractor must follow specific requirements for removal. The specific requirements can be found at the Department of Consumer Protection

Oil Spill: In the event of a leak or spill the homeowner should contact the CT DEP at the emergency response and spill prevention

 

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