The Next Step of Your Connecticut Home Purchase -The Building Inspection

As soon as your purchase agreement is signed by the seller, it is time to get very busy, and  very quickly. If you don't already have an attorney to represent you with your purchase, get one immediately, and have your agent get all of the paperwork to him/her.

Then you should get that building inspection scheduled right away. The time frame for completion of the inspection is outlined in the binder, and it is the next VERY important step. Whether I represent buyers or sellers, I like to see the inspection scheduled within five days of the negotiated and signed  binder.  No sense waiting a week or ten days. Just get it done. If there are any issues, it is much easier to resolve them in the beginning of the transaction.  If  a resolution is not likely, move on to the next property, and save the seller some grief at the same time.

When it's time to call an inspector, there are a few questions that you should always ask

1. Is the inspection company affiliated with any national organization such as NACHI or ASHI? These organizations require that inspector members subscribe to a strict Code of Ethics. It would say a lot about a company who does not belong to either one of these organizations.
2. Does the inspection and report include a certified pest inspection?  I
3. Is a radon test included?
4. Do you have any customer coupons for a discount?
5. When will the report be ready, and are photos included?

Assuming that all of these answers have been answered to your satisfaction, the next item of importance is your presence at the inspection.
Do not allow yourself to be distracted by anything when the inspector is reviewing and assessing your new home.  I tell my clients to "stick to that inspector like glue", and ask as many questions as they want. You are paying for this inspection. Get the most our of it. Inspectors have a wide range of knowledge and should be able to answer most any questions about the mechanicals and structure of the home. So ask away!

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Safety Tips for Your Connecticut Home: Using and Maintaining Fire Extinguishers

Fire extinguishers are devices commonly found indoors and are used to douse fire and prevent its spread. They are small metal canisters that contain compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated, propel a directed spray of flame-retardant chemicals. Fire extinguishers are only effective if building occupants understand where and why they are used.

Fire Type

 

 

Fire extinguishers are distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

“A” class – Fires that result from ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.

“B” class – Fires that result from combustible liquids, such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease.

“C” class – Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator.

“D” class – Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments.

“K” class – These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.

 

*Note* Although, technically, the letter rankings listed above refer to fire types, these symbols can also be used to identify the extinguishers themselves. For instance, an extinguisher that uses CO2 can be called a “CO2 extinguisher” or a “BC extinguisher."

Extinguisher Types

 

No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire. Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied. To prevent confusion, extinguishers are classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common extinguisher types are listed below:

Dry Chemical – There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical. One is called “multi-purpose dry chemical” and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on “A,” “B,” and “C” class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals and offices. Sodium bicarbonate is used in extinguishers known as “regular dry chemical,” which are capable of handling “B” and “C” class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

Carbon Dioxide – These extinguishers contain liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against “B” and “C” class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

Water Extinguishers – These extinguishers are most suited for “A” class fires. However, they cannot be used in “B,” “C” or "D" class fires. In "B" and "D" class fires, the water will spread the flames. In a "C" class fire, the water is conductive and poses a risk of electric shock to the operator. However, the misting nozzle of a "Water Mist" extinguisher breaks up the stream of deionized water so that there is no conductive path back to the operator. Since the agent used is water, these types of extinguishers are inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

Wet Chemical Fire Extinguishers – These devices are designed to combat “K” class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in “A” class fires.    

Inspection

 

InterNACHI inspectors should:

• check that a portable fire extinguisher exists within a 30-foot travel distance of commercial-type cooking equipment that uses cooking oil or animal fat.
• check that a portable fire extinguisher is within 75-feet of travel on every floor. 
• check for the presence of portable extinguishers, and determine that they are located in conspicuous and readily available locations immediately available for use, and not obstructed or obscured from view.
• confirm that access to extinguishers is not obstructed.
• make sure that the hose (if so equipped) is intact and not obstructed.
• make sure the pressure dial reads in the green or “charged” area. It should also be clear and readable.
• check that the pull pin is securely fastened within the handle and held in place by the tamper seal.
• check for visible dents or cracks in the extinguisher body.
• check that the extinguisher is in its proper location and mounted correctly.
• check for modifications that might reduce the extinguisher’s functionality.
• make sure that the fire extinguisher has a label and that is is legible. 

Inspectors should not do the following:

• test fire extinguishers.
• determine the adequate number of fire extinguishers needed or their ratings.
• ignite or extinguish fires.

Extinguisher Testing and Replacement

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that extinguishers should be tested every twelve years or five years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, “hydrostatic,” is conducted underwater where the cylinders are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed, while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, extinguishers should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

a. where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
b. where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked or nicked.
c. where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or nameband assembly.
d. where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
e. where a calcium chloride-type of extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
f. where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
g. where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
h. where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
i. where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.

When should a fire extinguisher be used?

Small fires can be controlled through the use of household or commercial fire extinguishers. A household extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a homeowner can potentially control a blaze long enough with an extinguisher for firefighters to arrive. Fire extinguishers should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger.   If the operation of an extinguisher will place building occupants in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

What is on an extinguisher’s label? You'll find:

• essential information about the types of fires they can combat. Newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters serve the same purpose.
• a numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class “A” and “B”).
• instructions for operation.
• a tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.

Do fire extinguishers expire?

 

Fire extinguishers expire and they do this for a few different reasons. One common way is that, over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. Extinguishers that have lost much of their pressure will not operate. Pressure within an extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. “ABC” class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Homeowners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if an extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of extinguishers, it is advisable to replace or recharge questionable extinguishers.

In summary, extinguishers are classified based on their chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of extinguisher combats what type of fire.  Fire extinguishers are critical indoor components that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

Article submitted by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

Connecticut Mortgage Rates and Financing Update September 2, 2011

Rates continue to be historically good, and should be for quite some time. Of course we will see daily fluctuations, but with the Fed firmly in the 0% and plan to stay there mode, mortgage rates should continue to sit around these levels for quite some time.

This week's Financial News

 The Wall Street Journal reported that "Bank of America Corp. intends to sell its correspondent mortgage business, as the troubled lender looks to narrow its focus and bolster its financial strength...Employees could be notified as soon as Wednesday that the lender has decided to exit the correspondent channel because it no longer fits with the long-term strategy for its mortgage unit. The company decided to get out roughly four to six weeks ago, following a review led by mortgage chief Barbara Desoer. The business employs more than 1,000 people."   What this means is, there are fewer and fewer big lenders in the business, the pricing on Chase home loans last week were in excess of 1.00% higher than other lenders - big banks do price themselves out of the market when - they are about to close a division or they have more loans application than they can close.  


The Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA) has reported the national average mortgage rate for the purchase of previously occupied homes by combined lenders was 4.57 % for loans closed in July - a decrease of 0.05% from the previous month. The average interest rate on conventional, 30-year, fixed-rate mortgage loans of $417,000 or less decreased to 4.69% in July. The FHFA also reports that the contract rate on the composite of all mortgage loans (fixed- and adjustable-rate) was 4.55% in July, down from 4.61% in June. The effective interest rate, which reflects the amortization of initial fees and charges, was 4.67% in July, down 7 from 4.74% in June.


U.S. home prices increased by 3.6% in the second quarter, after having fallen 4.1% in the first quarter, according to new data from the Standard & Poor's (S&P)/Case-Shiller Home Price Indices.

"Looking across the cities, eight bottomed in 2009 and have remained above their lows," says David M. Blitzer, chairman of the index committee at S&P Indices. "These include all the California cities, plus Dallas, Denver and Washington, D.C. - all relatively strong markets. At the other extreme, those which set new lows in 2011 include the four Sunbelt cities - Las Vegas, Miami, Phoenix and Tampa - as well as the weakest of all, Detroit. These shifts suggest that we are back to regional housing markets, rather than a national housing market where everything rose and fell together."   Today's Mortgage Rates 30 year fixed - 4.250% 0 points for rate 20 year fixed - 3.875% 0   points for rate 15 year fixed - 3.250%  0 points for rate 10 year fixed - 3.250%  + 1.00 lender credit points for rate 5/1 ARM - 2.50 %  0 points for rate 7/1 ARM - 3.00%  + 0 points for rate FHA/VA 30 year fixed - 4.250% +  0 points for rate 5/1 ARM  - 2.75+  0 points for rate 7/1 ARM - 3.250 + 0 point for rate Jumbo - over 729,000  up to 2,000,000 with 20% down on purchase 30 year fixed - 4.750 % with 0  points  for rate 15 year fixed - 4.375 % + 0   points for rate 5/1 ARM - 3.250 % + 0 points for rate 7/1 ARM - 3.75% + 0 points for rate 10/1 ARM -  4.375% with + 0 points cost for rate Jennifer Buchanan,  Certified Mortgage Planning Specialist at MetLife Loans is a seasoned veteran of the Mortgage, Banking and Broker Industry and specializes in mortgage loans throughout Fairfield County, Connecticut.    Her attention to detail is unsurpassed, and her understanding of the marketplace makes it easy to find the right loan to fit her clients specific needs .  Jennifer's local processing and closing team are also known for their exemplary service.    Understanding that the vast majority of mortgage brokers never discuss the long or short term  financial needs or goals with their clients, she set herself apart from the rest by obtaining the coveted CMPS  designation. (Certified Mortgage Planning Specialist)     She is a member of the National Association of Responsible Loan Officers, and her commitment to ethics, understanding of the marketplace, and business acumen have earned her the respect of her peers and clients alike. Jennifer Buchanan Metlife Loans 203-341-6949

Buyers: Before you Buy - Are there Easements on that Connecticut Property?

Another informative article submitted by Felicia B. Watson Attorney at Law

When  I meet with my clients, I always ask them if the plan on building or adding on to the property they are considering to purchase.   This includes building a pool.  The size of the home , the size of the lot, wetlands, flood zones  and easements  can restrict a homeowners’s ability to build.  Also, each town has very specific zoning regulations regarding setbacks from  the neighbor’s property, the septic system or wetlands, if any exist on the property.

These restrictions usually effect building outside of the footprint of the home, not interior work.  Many Buyers have no intention of adding to the home.  But ask for a copy of your easements anyway.  The more knowledge you have of your property the better.  For those who even might build an addition, find out the necessary information before you sign the Contract.  Also, if you have any intention of  building a pool on your property, hire a company to establish the footprint before you sign.  An easement on the land records does not effect marketable title, so if you  don’t like the easement after you sign the contract you can not rescind the contract.

As a former member of the Town Plan and Zoning, I am acutely aware of the rules, regulations and guidelines for homeowners.  Understanding the potential  is just one more step in a successful real estate purchase.

FeliciaWatson@sbcglobal.net

Twelve Easy Ways to Child Proof Your Connecticut Home

 About 2.5 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child-safety devices on the market today. Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully.

 

In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them. You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through online and mail-order catalogues.

 

InterNACHI inspectors, too, should know what to tell clients who are concerned about the safety of their children. Here are some child-safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children. 

 

1.  Use safety latches and locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

 

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but that are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

 

But, according to Colleen Driscoll, executive director of the International Association for Child Safety (IAFCS), "Installing an ineffective latch on a cabinet is not an answer for helping parents with safety.  It is important to understand parental habits and behavior.  While a latch that loops around cabinet knob covers is not expensive and easy to install, most parents do not consistently re-latch it."

 

Parents should be sure to purchase and install safety products that they will actually adapt to and use. 

 

2.  Use safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw into the wall are more secure than "pressure gates." 

 

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

 

3.  Use door locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers, including swimming pools.

 

To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks on safety gates should be placed high, out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and alarms. Sliding glass doors with locks that must be re-secured after each use are often not an effective barrier to pool access.

 

Door knob covers, while inexpensive and recommended by some, are generally not effective for children who are tall enough to reach the doorknob; a child's ingenuity and persistence can usually trump the cover's effectiveness.

 

4.  Use anti-scald devices for faucets and shower heads, and set your water heater temperature to 120° F to help prevent burns from hot water. A plumber may need to install these. 

 

5.  Use smoke detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries. Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year, or consider using 10-year batteries.

 

6.  Use window guards and safety netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls.  Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than 4 inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

 

7.  Use corner and edge bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls, and to soften falls against sharp and rough edges.

 

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture and hearth edges.

 

8.  Use receptacle or outlet covers and plates to help prevent children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

 

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

 

9.  Use a carbon monoxide (CO) detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

 

10.  Cut window blind cords to help prevent children from strangling in blind-cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

 

However, the IAFCS's Ms. Driscoll states, "Cordless is best.  Although not all families are able to replace all products, it is important that parents understand that any corded blind or window treatment can still be a hazard.  Unfortunately, children are still becoming entrapped in dangerous blind cords despite advances in safety in recent years."

 

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, vertical blinds and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

11.  Use door stops and door holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

 

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

 

12.  Use a cell or cordless phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas. Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

 

 

In summary, there are a number of different safety devices that can be purchased to ensure the safety of children in the home. Homeowners can ask an InterNACHI inspector about these and other safety measures during their next inspection.  Parents should be sure to do their own consumer research to find the most effective safety devices for their home that are age-appropriate for their children's protection, as well as affordable and compatible with their household habits and lifestyles.  They can find more information for household safety tips and product recommendations at the IAFCS's website at www.iafcs.org

Article submitted by Nick Gromicko

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV